April/May 1988 Newsletter No. I6. WS ‘THE CLUB CHRISTMAS 7 DO ‘As usual the 1987 xnas do was held late (or was the 1968 xme do held early?) Tt took place at the Wilkes’ Fead, Leek, and a good time vas had by all. Congrat- ulations to all who took part in its organisation. Exeellent. entertainrent was provided by our very oun Mark Lovett and friends. Thanks are due to C1iff for h presentation of the Whalley Avarda. Zig cano first for causing coaplete havoc at a recent cave meet, with Key a close second for his various antics throughout the year. Both proved their capabilities by mnaging to lose their trophies before the evening expired. (Zig's still hasn't been recoyered$) ~ It would aprear that they both intend becoming strong contenders for '88 (or will it be 29?) NT!OWD NEN LOSE TACKLE IN GILL" DURING A RECENT TRIP INTO MERRGILL IN MEL CONDITIONS, RALPH AND / OR ROSS MANAGED TO DROP A FULL TACKLE SACK INTO THE STREAM JUST BEFORE THE COND PITCH = WAS. PROMPTLY SWEPT AWAY BY THE STRONG CURRENT AND AT MPTS TO RIG THE PITCH TO RECOVER ABANDONED. BLAME WAS PLACED ON A KNOT COMING UNDO! TT HAD TO OW A HAULING coRD FASTENED TO THE SACK, BUT RUMOUR HAS IT THAT THIS MIGHT BH RALPHS BEST EXCUSE YET FOR NOT CARRYING HIS TACKLE SACK OUT {1 FORTUNATELY THE GEAR WAS RECOVERED THE NEXT DAY - T NKS YATNLY TO GRORGE'S AQU/TIC ACCROBATICS 11 P, TON ADVISES THAT CORDS BE REGULARLY CHECKND ON ALL SACKS - NOT ONLY GEAR CAN BE LOST, BUT A FALLING SACK GOULD EASILY INJURE 4 OW CAVERs ‘THERE HAVE BEEN TWO FURTER REPORTED INCIDENTS OF CORDS CUMING UNDOWR ON TACKLE SACKS. IN EACH CASE THE KNOT USED WAS A FISHERMANS ~ THE TYPS USED OM THE NEW COWS TAILLE BEWARNED. —P.TON ‘Equipment Column Cal. Danilewicr 19 Grasszroft Road Marsh pudderstield W. Yorks. ’ cow’s TAILS AND DROP TESTS Rudy Scheffer & Anne Terpstra, Speleo Nederland, PO Box 19177, 2500 CA The Hague, Netherlands. B.C.R.A. Equipment & ‘Techniques Olticer ‘Assimple drop test rig proved once more its usefulness and fun, After testing 2 /ot of cow's tails and ropes, it must be concluded that ‘single rope’ Smm cow's tails are not gafe enough. Apparently dynamic rope is deteriorating ‘rapidly if used for a cavers cow's tai ‘Alarmed by conflicting stories on the safety of cow's tas - an essential part of 8 caver’s personal equipment - we decided to build a simple device that allows for testing of ropes, cow's tails, etc, with a variable fall factor. The fal fector (F) is the length of the fall divided by the length of the rape available to intercept the fall. Fall factor F and the weight of the caver are the factors determining the.peak forces in the system "A steel weight of 80kg (made out of four blocks to faciitate transportation) was used for all tests, A steel beam served as the fixed point - see figure 1. This simple set-up proved to be a useful tool to obtain information on practical breaking strength of caving equipment. During the last two years, we used it intensively with sometimes surprising results, disturbing our peace of mind about ‘common practice’ For instance, of the 17 single-rope cow's tails tested and with a fall factor of F= 1.8, seven failed at the first fall. The others failed at the second fall. In contrast, several double- Tope cow's tails always passed at least one fall (F = 1.8); see table (Test No. 1-28) and figure 2 and 3. Therefore, we cannot recommend the $mm cow's tall of the familiar model (figure 2) any more. A few old-fashioned cow's tails made of tape webbing or twined rope also stood up to their reputation and failed at the first fall (Test No. 40-42) ‘The 11mm cow’s tails did better in our tests, as did the double ones. The double cow's tail, according ta figure 3, ‘was ‘invented’ to circumvent the bulky knots that come with the timm rope and because some old slings made of static rope (II tied with double fisherman's knots did so well (Test No. 22-23). The double cow's tail shown must be tied according ta figure 4. After over a year of intensive use within ‘Speleo Nederland’, it becames clear that this cow's tail is practical, However, it is also becoming clear that the strength of these cow's tails, made of dynamic rope, declines rapidly. A new one, tied accarding to figure 3, was stil intact after five falls [F=1.8, Test No.25) ‘Another one, made the same way of the same length of rope, but used intensively for one year, failed at the second fall (Test No.26). So, the well known advice to buy a new cow's tail every year still holds! Interesting is, that the strength of a “No Brand” cow's tail (sold as such by 2 caving shop) did not decline so much; a new and a used one both failed at the second fall (Test No.27-28) « Our rope tests were @ lot more comforting, see table. Dutch cavers usually rely on Edelrid caving ropes, mainly because of their excellent abrasion resistance. Technical dota from the manufacturer shows that the 10mm Superstatic should withstand seven falis with F= 1 and the ‘mm Superstatic, four such falls. Testing with F=1 tumed out to be tedious; a $mm rope was still intact after seven falls, Tests with the highest tall factor (F= 1.8) showed a remarkable consistency; only a 13 year old rope of unknown make, failed at the first fall. The others, all Edelrid, usually failed at the second fall. Apparently, this kind of rope is made to close tolerances and ageing has only a limited affect. in these tests, we probably stumbled upon 2 general point that ageing is more pronounced for dynamic rope than for static. Probably, the tests leading to the advice to use a single mm dynamic rope, were performed on a new rope? It would certainly be interesting to see more tests focused on the differences between new and used material. Also, it would be interesting to revive the discussion on the use of dynamic versus static rope tor cow's tails. |s it really true that the maximum shock load on a ‘real body’ (in contrast to a block of steell, is significantly higher if a cow's tall is made of static rope instead of dynamic? And, is the dynamic rope retaining its dynamic properties or does the rapid decline in bresking strength reflect a loss of ‘elasticity’? We would certainly welcome the opinion and test results of the readers! Figure 1.Drop test rig. Four blocks of steel, securely tied together, with @ Total weight of Baka, were hoisted wth a Landrover winch and dropped br disconnecting the rope from the winch cable. A stat! beam, bolted 0 the balcony of the house served as the fixed paint. The Srnm stainless eo! maiton rapide, used to fasten the cope to be tested fo the Beem, £2” ‘tu be screwed ogen by hand, but the fivestons stea! karabiner on he steel blocks recently failed, 3 Table Showing Results of Cow’s Tail and Rope Tests Ne. used for F remarks 1 15 mo 1,8 fails at lst fall 9 mm dynamic Edelrid classic Halbseil 2 15 mo 1 fails at 2nd fall _—part of same rope 3 15 mo 1 fails at dth fall — part of same rope, used less intensively 4 Lye 1.8 fails at 1st fall 9 mm 3 6 yrs 1.8 fails at Ist fall 9 mm dynamic 6 6 yrs 1.8 fails at Ist fall 9mm dynamic 7 2yrs 1.8 fails at Ist fall 9 mm dynamic ~ 8 6m 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 9 mm dynamic Edelrid classic Halbseil Q-approx. 3 yrs 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 9 mm dynamic 10 approx. 3 yrs 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 9 mm dynamic ll 3 yrs 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 10 mm dynamic 1200 lb yr 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 11 mm dynamic aly 1.8 fails at 2nd fall —11. mm dynamic 16 lyr 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 11 mm dynamic 1350 lb yr 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 11 mm dynamic 160 ld yr 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 11 mm dynamic 172 yrs 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 11 mm dynamic 18 approx. 4 yrs 1.8 fails at lst fall 9 mm dynamic; old club material 19 approx. 4 yrs 1.8 fails at Ist fall ditto 20 approx. 4 yrs 1 fails at 2nd fall — ditto 21 approx. 4 yrs 1 fails at 2nd fall — ditto DOUBLE COW'S TAILS 22 approx. 11 yrs 1 intact after 5 falls 9mm Joanny rope sling 23 approx. 4 yrs .1.8 intact after 3 falls 9 mm Edelrid rope sling 2% approx. 4 yra""1.8 fails at 3rd fall same as 18 - 21, tied according to fig. 3 25 new 1.8 intact after $ falls 9 mm Edelrid classic Halbseil; tied acc. to fig. 3 2 0 lyr 1.8 fails at 2nd fall ditto, intensively used for 1 yr; tied acc. to fig. 3 27 lyr 1.8 fails at 2nd fall ~- 9 mm dynamic; tied acc. to fig. 3 28 new 1.8 fails at 2nd fall © 9 mm dynamic; tied acc. to fig. 3 ‘ROPE 2S yrs 1.8 fails at Ist fall 10 mm static; used from 1973 to 1979 3000 OS yrs 1 fails at 2nd fall «ditto (same rope) 31 «6 yrs 1.8. fails at 2nd fall «10 mm Edelrid superstatic; used from 1977 to 1983 32. 6 yrs 1,8 fails at 2nd fall 10 mm Edelrid superstatic 336 yrs 1.5 fails at 2nd fall ditto (same rope) 346 yrs 1 intact after 2 falls ditto (same rope) 354 mo 1.8 fails at 3rd fall 10 mm Edelrid superstatic 36 10 mo 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 10 mm Edelrid superstatic 37-6 m0 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 10 mm Edelrid superstatic 38 2 ao 1.8 fails at 2nd fall 9 mm Edelrid superstatic 39 2 mo 1 intact after 7 falls ditto (same rope) GO approx. 2 yrs 1,8 fails at lst fall 45 mm tape cow's tail; rivets tear webbing 4) approx. 2 yrs 1.8 fails at lst fall 45 mm tape cow's tail 42 approx. 4 yrs_ 1.8 fails at Ist fall rope with spliced eyelets; steel eye fails STOP PRESS If you are intending to use this type of cows tail it is essential thet all of the knots are correctly tied and the last one particularly is tied off very tight (use a vice and a couple of strong mtes to help). There have been alaro @ reports of the last knot coming undone, and on my last visit to Inglesport they had stopped selling them, Ed. PICOS ARE TWO PLACES FOR THIS YEAI PICOS Di UROPA STILL Fagure 2 Typice single rope cow's tal of which we tested 21 far this reoort. Three figure of eight knots ave used. TRAVELLING DOWN 70 PLYMOUTH IN (OR P SIBLY A MINT ) AND Tal TO SANTAN SPAIN G WILL BE MINIMAL, 4 GOST OF THE TRIP (EXGLUDIN BLE . JULD BE ABOUT £ BELOW IS SHOWT Figure 2 Doublerope cow's mil as currently advised within Spaleo . IF YOU AR DWARDS AT ts INTERESTED (0274 597037) Fagura 4. Tying the double-rope cow's tail. The knots, essentioly isnermsn’s knots, must be tied in this order. The lest knot must be CONG: lwphtened very wel, For the cow's tai, 2.5m of Sm dynamic rope is a \ssed, but for tf persons, up to 3m may be necessary. This ig not much WHO (ferent fram the amount of rape necessary for the mare commen single rope cow's tal as shown in figure 2. i fi feel Pie SAFE LIFELINING Tt would appear that some bf us are using a novel technique for ascending pitehes involving parallel bars of metal spaeed about 10" apart Linked by two lengths of wire. Presumably the technique is still in its infancy because the pitch is also rigged by a length of ri pe which can presumably be used for the more common SRT should the metal device fail. Rumour has it that some people are actually using the rope as a backup and are lifelining club members as they climb the pitch, I would Like to remind club nembers of a few points and to mke some suggestions. 1. Round the waist / over the shoulder lifelinning techniques are basically unsafe and are NOT RECOMMENDED , endless articles have been published on this and I don't propose going over this ground again. 2. Ropes designed for 3.R.T, are low stretch and are not designed to take 2 shock loading. If you are going to use a rope for lifelinning make certain it is designed for the purpose ~ ask the equipment officer for the correct rope. 3. Salf-lifelinning techniques are advised vherever possible. This involves using @ jammer which can be toved by the climber . This jammer must. be linked to a sit harness and paver to just = chest harness or belay belt (suspension from a chest harness alone causes rapid unconsciousness followed by death- I lost 2 colleage this way!!). 4. If you are lifelinning your colleages then I suggest a Sticht plate or learn hoy to do an Italian Hitch-It's your life P.TON P.S. Ican't see that these metal devices becomming very ropular as a means of ascending & pitch until-a vay is found of preventing climbers falling off then, FOR SALE 4B HAVE THB USUAL + T Shirts, Sweatshirts Ammo boxes Trell Leg loops Personal S.R.T. secks Plus THE NEW CLUB JOURNAL at £2.50 (well done Liam excellent reading id.) Contact Ralph or Liam. BRAIN DRAIN EQUIP On our last visit to the Mendip Hills (and after many desperate and strenuous trips of course) ve managed to locate a Scrumpy Cider Fara at MUDGLEY, which is well vorth a visit. We bought an incredible 5 GALLONS of Dry Cider for an equally Amcredible sum of £11. (We supplied our own barrell.) Which works out at approx” 27p per Pint | The address for anvone interested is:- Roger Wilkins * (Wie) Terek G_ COTTAGE sou" GROYDON CAVING CLUB, GONDRE FENTRE, YSTRADFELLTE, SOUTH WALES. This Hut will take upto 12 people and costs £1.50 per night. It his coal fired central heating, Gas cooking (utensils provided), shover, and even a ‘Flush Toilet (luxury), but the most important thing is there is a pub just down the raad, Nearby caves include Porth ¥ Ogof 10 mins walk, Little Neath / Bridge Cave, O FD, Dan ¥ Ogof 15 mins drive. there are also lots of good walks on moors and waterfall valleys in this area. The hut is opposite the New Int ear park on the Pont Neath, Vaugen road. Apply tor- The Cottage Varden, Tel Chris Crowley er Groyden Caving Club Sec - Paul Stacey, MEETS List MAY Spring Dankiloliday- 27/28/29/30 LakeDistrict Gamping at Wasdale JUNE Sat 1th Ogof Heep Alyn/ Poachers Cave+ Sun 26th Out Sleets Reckt SULY 8/9/10 S.Wales OFD/DYO Sun 2{th Black Shiver/ Meregill + DENOTES TRIPS SUITABLE FOR BEGGINNERS UNDER INSTRUCTION GREWE CLIMBING AND POTHOLING CLUB ‘28th February 1988 \CKMATL. AT IREBY FELL CAVI In a desperate attempt to find something to fill the Newsletter, Derek caught me in a moment of weakness (standing in a freezing wet suit in a snowstorm with no change of clothing) and offered me a Furry suit in exchange for a short description of the club trip to Ireby Fell Cavern from my point of view. This was an offer which I could not refuse, so here goes Liam and Paul Johnson (Eldon) picked me up before the crack of dawn after a night on free beer. After a greasy breakfast at the Fountain Cafe, we lost our vay co reby Fell, I was assured that this was quite OK as " it always happens." I felt like the Bionic Man; “barely alive.” We changed at about 10:30 am, just as Jane and Derek arrived. 1 immediately felt 100 times better when I saw Jane; she had also had a skinfull the night before and looked like a corpse. In fact, she decided against going caving and opted to sit in the van instead, We proceeded to the entrance, a huge shakehole at the end of s blind valley and cautiously scrambled down, I accidently dislodged a fair sized rock which Lian somehow managed to avoid. It was just one of those mornings! The cave had been rigged the previous day. We climbed down through the shored up entrance to the first three short pitches, Ding, Dong and Bell, each quite interesting in its own right and offering three completely different situations. This was followed by a short scramble to a roomy aven with a vertical "letterbox" on the right. A thrutch through this led into a maze of dissolved shatter passages and a 20 ft easy climb over flowstones and gour pools. The stream passage enlarged to a pleasant comfortable walking size with only a minimal amount of water. It meandered for several hundred feet of easy going vadose section with only a smattering of minor inconveniences including two short crawls under massive flowstones and small downstream cascades The passage exhibited some fine decorations in the form of red-brown curtains and huge calcified chockstones which would do credit to many a show cave, After two short sporting pitches in rapid succession; one rigged and the other with an ancient handline, the passage began to flare out into truly colossal proportions. This surprisingly reduced again before we entered Duke Street, the master cave. Duke Street was a monotonous railway tunnel affair leading to a very black and uninviting sump. There was some evidence that someone had tried to siphon this with a length of garden hose! ambition knows no bounds! By this time I got the impression that Paul was getting bored with such easy progress and was succumbing to a condition which he describes as "cave drunk." The symptoms include climbing everything in sight and trying to squirm up any passagevay even when it is obvious to all that it is impossibly tight. Our return journey was slowed down considerably when Liam also began to develop this mysterious malady and he and Paul squirmed off up a fissure known as North East Inlet, their bodies completely filling the hole. Derek and myself waited for about twenty minutes before deciding to casually make our way out. The handline pitch proved quite amusing on the return journey as there just didn't seem to be that vital last foothold. Despite my pioneering ‘head Jaming' technique, I kept sliding back down until Derek's sense of humour was replaced by sympathy and he gave me a much appreciated hand. By the bottom of Bell pitch, we could hear Liam and Paul behind us, so we quickened our pace somewhat as we had eaten Liam's Mars Bar. The head of Dong pitch also lacked footholds and I had visions of Liam going through my pockets as I lay in a crumpled heap at the bottom. We exited ince sleet and snow and set off in completely the wrong direction. When we found the van , Jane was feeling (and looking) better. As T couldn't find Paul's car keys, I was offered a Furry suit and so this article came into being. To conclude, our part of the club trip to Ireby Fell was very enjoyable. The pitches were well rigged and the system has plenty of interesting features and an atmosphere I can best describe as friendly, which is quite surprising considering its accident record. Derigging is not particularly difficult due to the nature of the pitches and the fact that 80% of the pitches and therefore 80% of the tackle are within 30 horizontal feet of the entrance. Mark Lovatt ldth April 1988 hi ut please note t é 8 following points; LAMPS: ‘These are supplied charged (some may disagreett) with a knot cable. If the lamp is not used, plense leave the knot tied, if the do not tie a not in the cable when returning it. it avoids lamps being a) uncceaserily charged b) 1 charge. Ifa emp proves faulty, return it wit! SUITS: Will you please return turned the right w never possible clean and dry. these are expensive items and are only intended to ‘be used for introducing beginners ~ ie after a should be thinkiny 2bous buy: Foun. Prussiking is tiring. If ecessary, it is better to give a hand to a tired caver rather than waiting until he cannot climb any further and must be hauled up bodily. A rope attached behind [2] with a constant tension of around 30Kp makes it much easier to climb, A knot in the rope just above the caver allows the system to be changed [2, 3) should it be necessary to haul him up. Al the pitch-head, a pulley. ascender assembly can be installed, which can be changed if necessary toa pulley system Imagine that one of the team ia @ pitch is injured following a stonevtll. He does not reply to your shouts: he is unconscious. The rest of the party are a long wey in front or a long way behind: you are alone. You do not have any special equipment: only your normnal abseil/ prussik gear and the rape alread in the pitch. Your friend may be bleeding or have dificult breathing: he needs help immediately. Hanging on the rope is no place to do proper first aid ‘or to wait for the arrival of a rescue team: you must get the injured caver olf the rope, All competant cavers should t Al erie be capable of helping a collegue in Admittedly the situation described above i i if wth that, you can deal wih anything easier, Hepsi lion t vee a oer The normal technique In order to reach the injured person, it is of which he is already hanging. Climb or descend with ascenders {prussiking System, in reverse to descend). Before moving your ascenders past his, clip 2 Cows+ail into his harness | ten necessary to use the rope on | There are various ways of geting an ijured caver out ol 2 pitch. tris best to use the normal techniques of abseiling and prussiking, but modifications are needed to cope with the additional weight, When abseiling, additional friction must be added to the descender, for example a complete turn on a karabiner [1] Use a Shunt if you have one, bul have an ascender with a feotloop handy | because it is almost impossible to unlock @ Shunt with the weight of two people. The prussiking system is modified by passing the footloop through the | karabiner (use a pulley if available) attached to the ascender and clipping it into the harness, [2] preferably to the top of the chest ascender. Prussiking becomes less strenuous but slower. tig almost akvays necessary to lilt the weight of the injured person in order to remove his gear irom the rope. While clipped in to the victim, change your prussiking system as necessary. Clip his harness into your maillon rapide with Either a karabiner or using one of his cows-tails. Against a wall or if the victim may have dificulty breathing, 2 karabiner is better (3). In a free-hanging pitch or ina narrow pitch it is better to use a cowstail [4]. Climb up a litle to take his weight and remove his equipment (ascenders, descenders, elt) from the rope: keep them with you—you may need them later. Although it is possible to climb up with the victim, passing intermediate anchors normally, itis ring and slower than abseiling down. In addition you | may have enormous problems geting the victim olf the rope at the pitch freed. tis better to change from prussiking to abseiling: don’t forget the extra | turn on the karabiner [1]. Intermediate anchors can be undone. If this is not possible {not to0 light, second rope added), pass the intermediate anchor |_ Using the footloop to unfesten your Cows tl Hauling from the pitch-head - Occasionally it may be profereble to Tit the vietim on thé'¥epe to the top of the pitch, rather than fo go down fo him. This is not possible if there -are intermediate anchors, itimplies # longer delay in giving first aid, itis slow anc tiring, and there is 2 serious risk that you will not be able to get the victim off the rope at the pitch head. But it may be a valuable technique in certain cases, for example, if lifting the victim a couple of metres gets him out of a waterfall, It is necessary to use the legs to lift the rope, with the help of inverted ascenders. The chest ascender is reversed {5} and the other ascender is Installed on the rope, attached to the anchor {6]. Position yourself at the top af the pitch, cows-all clipped in, standing on foot-holds or in the foot-loap; if you use the foot-loop, it is worthwhile adjusting the €aws-tail so that you can sit down with your feet in the foot-loop [7]. With the rope in the chest ascender, use a prussiking action, except that itis the rope which rises in the reversed ascenders, The slack rope must be pulled through the upper ascender Ia pulley and a third ascender are available, a pulley-ascender assembly can be installed as soon as there is suffient slack. It is now possible to construct a pulley system or to “‘prussik up" the rope coming through the pulley ascender see ch. (X /8). Self-rescue With sufficient equipment and man-power it is possible to haul an injured talw) person up a pich wih the techniques aleady described ch. IX, Tackle Transport, Out it is generally better to leave this to an experienced rescue eam. Pulley systems An ascender fixed at the top of the pitch (3), preferably witha pulley (4A), avoids the load being dropped accidently and allows the hauling team to rest. lis offen difficult to grip the rope, which may be wet or muddy: use an ascender, preferably one with a handle [4B} The classical pulley system [5] requires two pulleys and two ascenders; tothe pulley-ascender assembly [S.A] is added a second pulley attached to a second Bscender [SB], The operation is easier if a weight (spare karabiners, for example) is aitached Io the second ascender [SC], to pull this down Sutomatically when the hauling fear pays out some slack rope. The classical pulley system works well with an upward pul, With 2 sideways pull (6), much Easier forthe hauling team, itis much less eficient With the seme ascenders and pulleys. an Oberdort uley system can be set v= up [7], using a separate rone of possibly the other end of the hauling rope. Chairman: Faul Holdcroft Secretary: Liaw Kealy Treasur: fohn Shenton Tackle Officers: Faul Holdcroft Ralph Johnson Liam Kealy Training Officer Kevin Mouatford Assistant Training Officer: Jane Brookes Meets Secretary Paul Shenton Rewsletter Editor: Deres Brookes Unofficial Club Heckler Tony Reynolds Adrian Hanson Dave Bailey,61 Ron Beckett,Ne Rodney Beaumont Nelvyn Bratt,13: Jane Brookes,11 Derek Brookes,1 Jan Gopeland,34! Russel Copeland George Crane,10 Nigel Cooper,52 Ross Evans,45 4 Pete Forster,3 4 Jan Freeman,c/a. John Gillet,3¢ ¢ Caroline Green, Mick Green,???7 Jan Grindey,56 Paul Holderoft,. Jan Housley,3 B Redacted