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Creme Climbing ant 4otholing Club, i
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DECEMBER 1993. No.3b.

MERRY CHRISTMAS
AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR

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HEREKEREENNARA RENNER RRR RRR ER ORE ee
MORE ON HAULING TECHNIQUES.
Brian Edmonds.

Most hauling techniques involve a dead hoist initially to
get some slack into the system. This is very hard work, but is not
impossible. Further, the system then describe the use of a 2-1
hauling technique, again hard work but possible.

The system described here requires no such initial strength,
and then provides a 3-1 assist, a much more reasonable state of
affairs for a tired caver after a long trip, or a sleight caver
trying to shift a much larger one up a pitch.

As with all pitch-head techniques of hauling, you have to
have previously removed all other rebelays and deviations, and then
get the victim off the pitch and across any traverse’s!

EQUIPMENT.

You'll need in addition to a rigged pitch with a victim,
your personal SRT kit, and 3 or 4 spare krabs. 2 pulleys and about
2-3m of spare rope are also very useful but not essential.

METHOD.

Hang your jammers upside down on the live rope to the victim
( care!! don't let them slide down the rope to the victim ) as
shown opposite, using krabs or pulleys if available and a length of
spare rope ( ? your footloop maybe ? ) Then it is quite simple,
with your cowstail clipped into the belay or traverse you just
stand in the footloop and raise the victim. Pulling the siack
through the top jammer.

E USEFUL KNOTS.
BUTTERFLY KNOT.

Method 1:-

> Wrap the rope around your hand three times then
lift A over B+C, and then lift 8 over C and A
Pull the loop @ through C and A. Remove your
hand and pull the loop and the ends E and D
tight.

2
e Take a bight of rope of the correct length for

the knot you wish to tie. Twist it through 180

degrees and again through 180 degrees. ( b and

4 © ) Ensure twisted area ( d) is still the

meal ~ length required for the knot. Lift the end of
the bight (e ) over to (c¢ ) and back up

through the hole formed by the twist in the

rope at (d). Pull it tight to give the alpine
butterfly.

a b c

These 2 methods both give the same knot. 1; gives a short loop
and 2; gives a long loop, but the knot itself is easily adjustable.
The advantage of this not over a figure of eight is that it
will take a 3 way load without deforming.

2:
More on Wauling Techniques

2-3 SPARE KARABINERS
To LOWER ToP sAmMmEn
LA FES CHES BLOND

Y” HANG,

Pun SLACK.
THROUGH HER’

ENVERTED SAMMER

i Puney

2-Bry of sraRe
ROPE,

poner

INVERTED “SAmmeR
(may NEED WEICHTING STH
KRABS OR TACKLE SACK)

snout
FosThoo?

VieTImM

(Hauling & Knots Continued)

CLOVE HITCH/ITALIAN HITCH.

Make 2 loops as shown. For an Italian hitch ( a

useful lifeline/abseil knot ) close the loops
together like a book and clip a krab through
the loops.

For a Clove hitch pass loop (a) behind (b) and
clip a krab through the loops. This gives a

a 6. useful and easily adjustable knot, which is
perhaps more suited to caving than climbing, to
be used in place of a fig 8 ona bight or a
butterfly knot.

===00000-==

TO KNOT OR NOT TO KNOT
P. Ton..

Ever tied a Fig 8 knot into the end of your rope only to find it
has mysteriously untied itself?? You normally discover this as the
loose end is about to disappear into your decender!! I normally
prevent this by tying a thumb knot into the rope above the "fig 8"
but our learned member Ethel Rid informs me that a "Capuchin" knot
is better since it will not come undone and a second rope can be
added by threading the end of the new rope thro the "loose
Capuchin" then tying a knot as for a "Double Fishermans" If you
believe this you'll believe anything!!! Comments please. There
could be a prize for spotting the obvious problem.

IG_8 STOPPER FOLLOWED BY
CAPUCHIN

If you have any items of news, funny stories,(fact or
fiction), caving information, competitions, gossip, items
wanted, articles for sale, or anything else you wish to share
contact me by either Phone, Letter or in Person at one of the
meetings. Don’t forget this is your Newsletter, I only compile
it. TRACY CONDE. (Coddy)

30 BROUGHTON ROAD, CREWE. CHESHIRE. CW1 4NT 0270 581754.

4

Results of Rope Drop Tests.
Page 1
ROPE TYPE DIA

Blue Water timm 1983

Edelrid 10mm = 1991
Edelrid 11mm = 1991
Edelrid gmm 1991
Dynamic 11mm > 5 YRS
Dynamic 8.5mm 1983
Edelrid 44mm ?
Edelrid 14mm ?

KNOT
O/H
O/H

O/H

Fa

O/H
Fa
O/H

O/H

RESULTS

low stretch

Survived 3 FFI Very
Survived 10 FF1 Sheath glazed

Survived 3 FF1 Sheath showing
signs of general wear

Failed 2nd FF1 Sheath showing
signs of general wear

Survived 1 FF1, 1 FF2 & 1 FFI
Stretched-didn't return to orig si
Survived 1 FF1 Failed on FF2

Survived 2 FF1 Failed on 3rd FFI

10 Samples all survived 3 FFI
in one case the rope had been
taken out of service due to
glazing of the sheath,

In all cases the ropes snapped inside the knot - on the first
curve ( Apparently there are two ways of tying a figure eight knot,

can you tie it correctly )
tests.

Also

three krabs snapped during the

@ORRRRAEERCETOOTEOCOERECOECEEEHECECEEOOOE@OEOHRADOOOOMOQQEOARERAGOQE@EOOOR

Anyone interested in a couple of hours "RAFTING" between
Christmas and the New Year contact Ralph J. £17 for two hours of
"White Water Rapids",

all equipment included.

Some of our Ladders in the store are now fitted with Maillon
Rapide Screw Links instead of the "C" Links - these cost over a

pound each and are easily lost, so bring some money when returning
the ladders back to the stores if you loose them. Or be more
careful!!!

Basic ladder/lifeline techniques :- Some members have
requested a basic course on lifelining techniques. If you are — =
interested in such a course please contact Sharon Brandwood or

Brian Edmonds.

OR SALE

Tee Shirts.....
Sweat Shirts..
Fleese Trousers...
Small 301 Rucksacks.

Badges & Car Stickers..

Contact Ralph J.

Leather Walking Boots,

Contact Sharon.

Lost

23.
+-£10,00 (due soon)
+-£10,00 (Blue/blue)
-£20.00 (only two left)
Eis

50 (I think)

00 = (approx)

Size 7. Almost new. £25.00 ono

One 10mm Screw Gate Alloy Karabiner (new)
Contact Darren Conde.

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